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From Birria to Pottery in Tlaquepaque, Jalisco.
I’ve known Fernando Ayala since we were awkward teenagers in high school. Back then, he was already the guy who could talk to anyone: the teachers, the janitors, the prettiest girl in class, even the grouchy bus driver. Now, years later, he’s a sociologist turned tour guide—the kind of person who can explain urban migration patterns in Guadalajara while also making sure you get the best seat at the birriería. That mix of knowledge and humor makes him the perfect guide if you’re planning your first Mexico travel adventure in Jalisco.
Starting the Day with Birria in Guadalajara
Our day kicked off in the most delicious way possible: birria. Fernando led me into Nueve Esquinas, the neighborhood that’s ground zero for this iconic Jalisco dish. Birria is more than food—it’s a ritual. A steaming bowl of goat in red chile broth, stacks of tortillas, lime wedges, salsa, and onions. The process is simple but sacred: spoon broth, shred meat, load your tortilla, and repeat until you’re full or your shirt carries a permanent stain. At one point, I squeezed half a lime into the broth, and Fernando laughed. “That’s too much, man, you’re killing the balance,” he said. I ignored him. I liked the chaos. If you’re making a list of things to do in Guadalajara, eating birria at Nueve Esquinas should be at the top of the list.
Exploring Guadalajara’s Historic Center
Fueled by birria, we walked it off in the historic center. Guadalajara’s cathedral dominates the skyline, surrounded by plazas aligned in the shape of a cross. Colonial facades stand tall, while street vendors sell roasted corn, ice cream, and souvenirs. With Fernando, the details come alive. He pointed out baroque flourishes carved into doorways and explained how Guadalajara has always been a city of arrivals and departures. It felt less like a history lesson and more like seeing the city through the eyes of someone who knows both its statistics and its soul.
A Stop at Mercado San Juan de Dios
No trip to Jalisco is complete without stepping into Mercado San Juan de Dios, one of the largest indoor markets in Latin America. It’s chaotic in the best way: food stalls, bright fabrics, leather belts, toys, electronics—everything under one roof. Here, Fernando introduced me to tejuino, a fermented corn drink topped with lime and shaved ice. Tangy, sweet, and slightly funky, it’s a flavor that stays with you long after you leave Guadalajara. I wasn’t sure if I loved it or hated it. Fernando just grinned, the same grin he had back in high school when he dared me to eat a chili-covered tamarind candy. Some things don’t change.
Tlaquepaque and the Panduro Family
In the afternoon, we drove to Tlaquepaque, a town famous for mariachi, crafts, and colorful streets. But instead of the usual shops, Fernando brought me to meet the Panduro family, legendary clay artisans of Jalisco. The dynasty began with Pantaleón Panduro, a 19th-century potter who sculpted President Porfirio Díaz in clay. His descendants—including Margarito Núñez Panduro—kept the tradition alive through the 20th century. Today, Pilar Núñez Hernández continues the family legacy with sculptures so realistic they feel alive. Inside their workshop, with clay dust floating in the light, Pilar guided us in shaping our own figures. We each made a xoloitzcuintle, the iconic Mexican hairless dog. Mine was clumsy and lopsided, but Fernando’s looked surprisingly elegant. At one point, Pilar leaned over and gently reshaped my dog’s ear. “Now it looks less like a rabbit,” she said with a smile. I’m pretty sure she was being generous. If you want authentic things to do in Guadalajara and beyond, visiting Tlaquepaque with a local guide like Fernando is unforgettable.
Ending the Day in Tlaquepaque
We wrapped up on Tlaquepaque’s main street as the sun dipped and mariachis tuned their instruments. Fernando laughed and said sociology taught him to “read society,” but guiding tourists taught him to “feed society.” That line summed up the day perfectly: knowledge and flavor, history and humor, rigor and joy.
Final Thoughts: Why You Should Visit Guadalajara with Fernando
If you’re visiting Jalisco for the first time, you could follow a guidebook. But Guadalajara reveals itself best through people like Fernando Ayala. You’ll get birria, tejuino, pottery, and stories that no “things to do in Guadalajara” list can fully capture. If you’d like to book a tour with Fernando, click here.
